1. Preparing the substrate
Before bonding, check that the surface is clean, dry, flat and free of dust, grease and loose material. If the substrate is particularly porous, apply a water-based consolidating primer.
2. Bonding the profiles
Recommended adhesive: elastic S1/S2 (silicone-polyurethane) or an external wall insulation adhesive.
- Apply the adhesive as a continuous perimeter bead
- Ensure at least 40% coverage of the contact surface
- Press firmly for a few seconds
3. Joints between profiles
Important: leave a 2–3 mm gap between one profile and the next. This expansion joint is essential to absorb thermal movement and prevent cracking.
- Fill the joint with a one-component elastic sealant (MS polymer or polyurethane)
- Apply with a cartridge gun to form an even bead
- The sealant must be compatible with EPS
4. Cleaning off excess sealant
Remove excess sealant immediately with a damp sponge, before the surface begins to cure.
5. Finishing the joints
If needed, skim the joint line with the same adhesive, spread with a flexible spatula. Brush over immediately with a damp brush to soften the edges.
6. Base coat
Essential before painting. Apply an acrylic or quartz-acrylic bonding primer compatible with EPS. This evens out absorption, makes the joints disappear and prepares the surface for the topcoat.
7. Surface finish
Once the base coat is dry, paint by brush, roller or airless spray. Outdoors, use water-repellent products with UV resistance.
⚠️ Important notes — waterproofing
Correct installation gives a continuous seal across the whole surface. Water ingress is the main enemy of durability. We recommend fitting the profiles BEFORE the building’s final coat of paint. The paint creates an additional, continuous waterproof barrier.
